Tuesday, 23 December 2008

Fur terrain

So here is my first attempt at fur terrain. Its on a 4x4 piece of wolf fur I purchased from ebay. Ive learned a few lessons from this so when I do my proper 8x5 it should help.

Think I will try roads next and add how I get on.

PS fur terrain is hard work!!

basic steps

trip fur with both hair clippers and scissors (my cheap hair clippers found it hard to cut this stuff...

Dry brushed with water based craft paint of various shades of green. Better to use lighter greens I found.

spray can some other green and yellow over top...

Finished ancients unit

Hi all,

So here is my hoplite unit finished. I painted these in batches of 8 and my last batch made me sad :( - somehow my dullcote got infected with some paint or something and they came out quite ugly. Not ugly enough to force me to repaint however ... One thing I have learned from painting these is that I aint gonna make a greek army. Did enjoy them at first but not so much.

Saturday, 20 December 2008

Some lovely Ebob sculpts


Blogging quite a lot recently due to these lovely holidays I have. Here are some Ebob knights and mongols I painted some time ago. Not sure whether to sell them or try and find a use for them...

Thursday, 18 December 2008

Carthaginian Comparison Pictures

Hello again,
I quite fancied painting up some ancients so decided to buy some sample packs of Carthaginians. I bought one pack from gripping beast, A&A, Crusader and Renegade. Renegade actually had a rather tempting sale on at 6£ per pack of 8, they were the cheapest.

Here is the Renegade figure. Although its proportions are not really that accurate I do like this figure. The head is far too large and its overall look stocky.. It also has a very large shield compared to the others of a similar size. I don't know if this is historically accurate or not so I wont comment. 7/10

This is the Crusader figure. I actually bought a spearmen here with quite different armour to the others. This is perhaps not the best idea for a comparison. Its body proportions are more accurate that the former but for some reason I don't prefer it. This could be down to its dull uniform which I did not enjoy painting. 7/10

Now we come to the A&A figure. I have to say I don't like this chap. It is a very flat sculpt and lacks definition for its features. For example, its hard to see where the arm ends and the hand begins. The details are not so easy to pick out as the other figures due to this and I had trouble highlighting. 5/10

Not we come to my favourite. This Gripping Beast sculpt is the smallest by far and is the only one that wouldn't mix in my opinion. Its hard to say why I like it the most but I do. Its face has come out looking sharp and is proportions look right. My biggest problem though is with its grip for the spear. It was hard to get the thing to stay on and I had to make several attempts. 8/10

Its a shame the gripping beast figure doesn't mix with the others.. I have 24 big chaps which would make a nice unit were I to build a whole army... Te problem would be finding other ranges to match because although the gripping beast range is a decent size, it doesn't cover everything..

Friday, 12 December 2008

My first Ancients


Ive been planning on building a small anicient force for some time but cant make up my mind on what to do. Its not a period I have much knowledge of and so I bought a few sample packs. Here are some gripping beast Carthaginians and some foundry Greeks.

WARNING - if you click on the image you will see all the ugly errors that arnt there to the human eye... My cameras "super marco" is too good sometimes...

These are the foundry greeks. The poses are quite unusual and might be hard to rank up. Lovely sculpts and fun to paint but MUCH larger than the gripping beast ones..

These are the Carthaginians from Gripping beast. I really liked these but have other packs on the way from Crusader, A&A and Renegade. Ive been told they dont mix well due to their small stature. Notice I painted three of them in gleaming white but one in a more diry sand colour similar to the one on the

Wednesday, 10 December 2008

The Battle of Stockach

Hello again,

Tonight We played a game of LFS at the local Phoenix club. I think it went rather well considering that two out of the four players had never seen the rules before. We got 8 turns done in about 3 hours which was just enough to get a result.

Austrian CNC Solid/Cautious

1st infantry Division solid/bold (1)

Orders - ATTACK - Advance to take village directly to the south, then move on to the village, south east on this

1st brigade .
Line C SK+1
Line C SK+1
Line C SK+1

2nd brigade
Line C SK+1
Line C SK+1
grenadiers B SK+0

Attached grenzer rifles C (6) SK+2
attached medium battery C (6)

1st cavalry brigade solid (2)

Orders - MOVE - support 1st infantry divisions right flank, by move 2

Hussars Light B
Hussars Light B

2nd Cavalry Brigade Poor/cautious (3)

Orders - MOVE - support 1st infantry divisions left flank

Curas heavy B
Curas heavy B
Dragoon medium C
Dragoon medium C

The Austrian army enters the map the to north west with any orders you choose. Your objective is to secure all villages shown on the map. You secondary objective is to retain as much artillery as possible as this is in short supply. There is a single battalion of landwher (D) protecting the farm to the east but it wont hold out long. You have 1 additional dummy blind which enters with the rest of the army in any order you wish.
The game will last a maximum of 8 turns. If either side reaches 10 victory points then the game will end immediately
+1 Per enemy unit routed from the map
+3 per village held
-1 if battery lost

French CNC able/bold

1st infantry Division solid (1)

Orders - MOVE TO hill/town forming defensive line roughly in line with road joining village to hill.

1st brigade
Line C SK+1
Line C SK+1
Line C SK+1

2nd brigade
Line C SK+1
Line C SK+1
Line C SK+1

Attached medium artillery (6) B

1st Cavalry Brigade solid/cautious (2)

Orders - MOVE TO in advance of above division but do not engage the enemy. Once main enemy is spotted, MOVE to support left flank of main body

Dragoons Heavy C
Dragoons Heavy C

Light Division able/Bold (3)

Orders - ATTACK town to the north of current position then HOLD

3rd infantry Brigade
Chasseurs B SK+2
Chasseurs B SK+2

1st cavalry detachment
Chasseurs cheval light D
Chasseurs cheval light D

The main French army enters the map from the south-west with any orders you choose. The light division will enter from the South east with orders to take the farm to its north-east. You have 1 additional blind which may enter from either route.

The game will last a maximum of 8 turns. If either side reaches 10 victory points then the game will end immediately
+1 Per enemy unit routed from the map
+3 per village held

Pre Battle

These initial orders were sound on both sides. The French planned to build a defensive battle line joining the village in the north to the village on their own side. The Austrians however chose to abandon the village to the north, seize the village to the west and then march everything eastward. I could see that this may well work due to the Austrian superiority on the southern half of the table.

Turn 1

The Austrians moved forward their entire force in a single block with the infantry division in the centre, supported by cavalry on each wing. Their Dummy blind Marched North. This was probably to try and divert attention from what was to be the main battle. The French moved the light division to take the town as per orders. Their Infantry advanced to take the hill while their cavalry guarded the flank. I could see that they were using their dummy to bluff a larger centre.

Turn 2

The Austrian Left wing (heavy Cavalry) was spotted semi deployed. The French then moved their Dragoon Brigade to match off to the Austrian left wing. Both players fully deployed before choosing to reveal their troops here. I think both were keen to get their figures on the table and it didn’t much matter at this point anyway. The Austrians main infantry division also revealed itself so that it could garrison the village to its front. This was the Austrians first mistake. By positioning their blind behind a village, they gave themselves very little room to move. They would struggle for the rest of the game to get their forces around it... To the North the French light division also left its blind to prepare for an attack against the village there.

Turn 3

Early in this turn the French took the initiative by charging the Austrian hussars on their right. It seemed like a decent idea but when it came to adding up the modifiers things looked bleak. They were enfiladed by a town and also outclassed in quality and quantity. Their commander and supports were unable to even the balance and they were beaten back, shaken. The hussars then drew their card but couldn’t charge due to a poor/cautious draw. I decided to make all the cavalry commanders cautious, just to be evil :) Things were going better for the French in other areas of the map. Their cannon were firing into the semi deployed Austrians, bouncing through and causing much bloodshed. Their Light infantry was also making good progress in taking the northern village. They chose to move their dummy behind their village in the east to give the impression this would be garrisoning it. The Austrians spent most of this turn trying to get their army in order. Fully deploying their Heavy cavalry and getting their infantry round the village was eating up their pips.

Turn 4

Hussars missed their turn due to another poor/cautious card. The CNC takes control of the situation and leads the elite hussars to victory against the shaken dragoons. Interestingly they also rolled a 6+ which forced them into pursuit, taking the CNC with them!

In other matters the French B class Cannon fire at the heavy cavalry, causing yet more carnage but the Austrian horsemen hold their ground. The town to the north taken by the elite Lights and the battle starts to sway in favour of the French.

Turn 5

Austrians reform their over impetuous cavalry and prepare to support the centre. The Austrian heavy also came to their senses and started to take action. They charge the guns who had killed so many of their comrades but are beaten back from murderous grapeshot. The French finally occupy the eastern village. While this was clearly in their zone of control, I reminded them they needed to garrison it to get the victory points!

Turn 6

By this point the French had moved two regiments of the northern light division to threaten the Austrian left. These light cavalry (D class) charged the Austrian dragoons but were beaten back mercilessly. It was turning out to be an embarrassing battle for the republics cavalry arm...

Turn 7

Very little action. The French light cavalry reform after their defeat and lick their wounds. The Austrian hussars move in to support final attack while a single infantry battalion prepares for an attempt to take the village.

Turn 8

The Austrians prepare for a last ditch assault..

In one last push to snatch victory the Austrians hurl their infantry battalion at the village. Although the olds are against them, even a fire fight result could force the French back and lead to a contested village. This would perhaps just be enough to win the game. It was not to be however as the brave infantry were forced back after a brief round of musketry.


Although the Austrian plan was sound they seem to have lost the battle on turn 4 due to deploying to early, behind the village. They were unable to take advantage of their greater numbers in the south of the map and drive the French back. It must have been frustrating for poor Euan to see the weakness of the French village to the east but be unable to get his main force into position. All in all a good game which everyone enjoyed. Even with fairly large forces it seems that we can get 8 turns completed in club time. As we get more experienced with the rules I expect it could be done in perhaps 2 1/2 hours rather than 3.

Viva la republic!

Friday, 28 November 2008

basing issue resolved....

Hello again.

Im an self confessed basing obsessive and have been musing over my napoleonics for some time. I decided that putting them in 3's, while flexible, is too fiddly and i prefer a more irregular look...

I tried two methods. One was to use the DBA standard 40x20, the other to use 30x20. While I always base shoulder to shoulder I decided to make the second rank thinned out. This allows more frontage, per figure and gives a more irregular look.

Prussians based 24 figs, 6 per 30x20 base

This pic shows how the line looks very think compared to the NB standard.

With 26 figs (4 bases) you get an ok square

and an ok column

With 36 figures you can a really nice column and square which really suits my ragged 1813 prussians and early french I think..

This is 40mm x 20mm which is less flexible when I want to use 24 man battalions. This is because with 3 bases you cant make a decent square as above. It is however perfect for my ottomans who cant form square anyway :)

Monday, 17 November 2008

Making Terrain

As I havnt any metal to paint at the moment, I decided to start experimenting with terrain creation. I expected this to be a fairly grueling process but it ended up being a nice change. As I am new to this I decided to take an ad-hoc approach. I would use methods that allowd me to build things up slowly, making modifications and changes where needed.

The following is a farm I wanted to make. I like the farmland look on wargames tables with the straight lines and features. I considered making the entire game mat in this fashion but ended up doing an add on piece. This was because I ordered too much felt and figured I may as well use it.

This is how I made it.

1 - cut felt to size and draw out features with marker pen
2 - mask of areas with same colour
3 - spray areas with 3M spray glue and sprinkle on flock
4 - cover with newspaper and place book on top
5 - repeat process, adding different coloured flock to different areas (roads were sand with brown wash)

After shaking off the loose flock I found the colours wernt really bold enough at this point. I added more patches of flock and found that it stuck better the second time round. However I still wasnt happy so I purchased some light green and yellow spray paint. I applied this from a height after masking off the areas as before. This looked better but one or two areas were now too light!!! I made a wash from my miniature paints and just this to light areas to dull it down. This worked better than I expected so I made c couple more washes and played around a bit..

Overall Im quite happy with my first attempt. The flock will come off over time but as I found second layers of flock very quick and effective when applied so this doesnt bother me too much. Note the bits of litchen and hedge you see in the picture are loose and will be folded away with the farm at end of play time.

hope you like... Next up the mat itself!